Posts for technical category:

Porsche 993 Turbo Oil Feed Upgrade

01 Apr 2016 by

Porsche 993 Turbo Oil Feed Upgrade is now available @AWMotorSport


We have come across a few people who have unfortunately gone to great lengths to stop a smoking issue on start up on various 993 Turbos. These have even included replacing the Turbo units at a great cost.

This week we have had an example of this issue and in this case it was the oil feed pipes causing the fault. Here we explain the cause and the remedy we carried out. This could sometimes be a better and more affordable place to start.

As you can see, this is a great example of a 993 Turbo and one we are proud to take care of as it is always increasing in value day to day. This car is only used on nice weekends and tends to sit for long periods of time. Due to this, when the car is not running oil tends to track down the oil feed pipe filling the turbo and exhaust. Not only does this cause a great amount of smoking on start up which will continue until all the sitting oil is burnt off but can also cause damage to the catalytic converters and lambda O2 sensors.

Here shows the original oil feed pipe after it has been disconnected from the turbo.


This shows the original pipe and the difference in the oil feed upgrade kit from FVD with the check valves inline.


The FVD kit is a modified oil feed pipe which includes a check valve only allowing oil to feed the turbo when the car is running and the pressure is increased in the system. This is a modification Porsche have done themselves on the 996 Turbo once the problem was recognized. Once these oil feed upgraded pipes including the check valves are fitted, oil will no longer be able to enter the turbo or exhaust system when the engine has been switched off.


Please contact us for price inquires and bookings.

Porsche 911 SC Engine Strip

04 Mar 2016 by

Porsche 911 SC Engine Strip


This week we are getting to use our new 911 SC Engine Cradle



As you can see Jules here taking his time and great care in stripping this heritage engine for a top engine rebuild

For more information in Engine Rebuilds please follow the contacts page and drop us an email

993 Rear Chassis Repair

09 Feb 2016 by



We are now happy to offer this service to Porsche 993 owners that require repairs to the rear chassis legs.

During some vehicle inspections it has been found that a great deal of corrosion is apparent in this area that requires attention. We strip back the exhaust and heat shields to reveal the extent of the corrosion and then cut all the corroded areas away. Once all the corrosion has been removed we then replace the metal work. As each case differs we hand make each panel for an exact replacement. Once the new panels are in place, we then rust treat to avoid any return and paint in a body matching colour.

Please take a look at the step by step process below on our latest repair.







Porsche IMS Bearing Upgrade

02 Feb 2016 by

Porsche IMS Bearing failure is a known issue with the 9×6 and 9×7 models from 1998-2008


To prevent this failure, we at AW Motor Sport are happy to introduce this upgraded bearing that can be fitted without the extremes of a complete engine strip and rebuild at a very competitive price.

Please contact us for further information or to make a booking

Fully fitted prices from £1350 inc VAT

Changing a Porsche 911 wheel bearing

22 Jan 2014 by

We’ve just changed the rear wheel bearings on a customer’s Porsche 911 Carrera 3.2. Always a fun job!


The Porsche 911 has large rear wheel bearings – too big for most pullers and presses. For this reason, we made up our own press using a piece of bronze tubing. Having the right tool always makes a job easier, but it’s still not our favourite task as the bearings are invariably very tight to get off.


Wheel bearings have a decent lifespan and you’ll know when one is failing as you’ll hear an annoying whining from the rear end, which may be more apparent during cornering. Don’t assume that the noise is a bearing, though, as it is easy to mistake it for other problems – we’ve even come across cheap tyres that make a noise suspiciously like worn wheel bearing!


On this Porsche, though, we pinned it down to the wheel bearings and, once we got them off, it was very apparently that they were worn, with noticeable movement in them.


If you’re in the West Sussex/Hampshire area, do please get in touch for Porsche servicing and repair.


Fitting new clutches to a Porsche Boxster and 993 Turbo

16 Oct 2013 by

IMG_4772A shiny new clutch fitted to a Porsche 993 Turbo

We’re having a busy time in the workshop. Two jobs of note recently were fitting new clutches to a Porsche Boxster and a Porsche 993 Turbo. In both cases, it’s a fairly straightforward job that involves removing the gearbox – some people say you need to drop the engine as well in the case of the 993 but we always manage not to, as it saves a few hours’ labour.

The main difference is that the gearbox is behind the engine in the case of the mid-engined Boxster and in front of it in the rear-engined Porsche 993.

How long a clutch lasts depends on how and where the car is driven. Generally, it will wear out quickly in a car that’s mostly driven in a city for the simple reason the driver is changing gear more than with a car that’s driven up and down a motorway. Also, if slip the clutch during hill starts rather than using the handbrake, you’ll wear the clutch out.

If a Porsche clutch is on its way out, the pedal will begin to get heavy and, eventually, you will feel the clutch slipping when you try to accelerate.

AW Motor Sport can replace the clutch on your Porsche or other car quickly and without fuss, at a sensible price, so please get in touch for a quote.IMG_4773

Fixing a Porsche 993 misfire

02 Oct 2013 by

This Porsche 993 distributor cap was worn away. No wonder the engine was misfiring.

A customer brought in his very nice early Porsche 993 today, complaining of a slight misfire. Now, with a modern car you can just plug in a computer and run diagnostics to get the root of such issues. Not so with a Porsche 993. Yes, there’s a diagnostic port but it doesn’t give you anywhere near as much information as with a newer car.

Instead, it’s down to experience, common sense and a bit of detective work.

Ignition faults are a common culprit for misfires so we whipped off the distributor cap to find a right mess. We reckon the car still had the original cap and the contacts were worn right down, as was the rotor arm. A simple and quick fix to replace both those.

The rotor arm inside the distributor was also long overdue for replacement
The rotor arm inside the distributor was also long overdue for replacement

We also spotted some dodgy wiring on the Lambda sensor; someone had cut the original wires and remade them with crimp connectors, which are unreliable at the best of times, especially in a hot, oily and damp engine compartment. We had to solder these to do the job properly. Once done, we’d cured this Porsche 993 misfire.

Crimp connectors are never great.
Crimp connectors are never great.

Porsche RMS (rear main seal) replacement

24 Sep 2013 by

The correct tool is essential for fitting a rear main seal. It pushes the seal slowly and surely into position
The correct tool is essential for fitting a rear main seal. It pushes the seal slowly and surely into position

Removing the old seal from the end of the engine, after the gearbox has been removed
Removing the old seal from the end of the engine, after the gearbox has been removed

A common job for us to replace a rear main seal (RMS to its friends) on Porsche 996, 997, Boxster and Cayman engines.

Porsche RMS issues are often discussed by Porsche owners and buyers, and it’s often blown out of all proportion. A Porsche RMS leak usually causes nothing more than a slight oil leak which, if you’re really unlucky, will reach as far as your garage floor.

The rear main seal is at the end of the engine where the crankshaft comes through to meet the clutch and gearbox. The seal is there to stop engine oil leaking through around the crankshaft. Problems with the RMS are common and most Porsche 996, 997, Boxster and Cayman engines will suffer an RMS leak at some point in their lives. It’s not unique to Porsche either – we see other marques with similar problems.

The rear main seal was redesigned by Porsche a number of times, which improved the reliability but it never really solved the problem fully.


The seal itself is inexpensive but replacing it means removing the gearbox, which obviously is labour intensive. Therefore, with manual transmission Porsches, we usually suggest that you live with the leak until the gearbox has to come out for other work – which is invariably a clutch change. Indeed, it makes sense to check the seal carefully when the clutch is out and replace it if there’s the slightest doubt as to its condition.

The trick to a successful job is to ensure that the new seal is fitted correctly, which means straight and snuggly without damaging it. And the only way to do that is to use the correct Porsche tool which presses the seal into place properly.

If you need anything done to your Porsche, classic or modern, please get in touch.



Porsche 996/997 coil packs

05 Sep 2013 by

Porsche 996/997 coil packs: We’ve just had a Porsche 996 in for a service and had to change the coil packs, which is a common job on the Porsche 996, 997, Boxster and Cayman.


Petrol engines have to create a spark to ignite the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder and this is done by passing a high voltage through the spark plug. As cars only have a 12-volt electrical system, the high voltage is created by a coil. In the old days, there was just one coil which fed all the spark plugs, however most modern cars have one coil per spark plug, and these so-called coil packs are positioned right by the spark plug.


On Porsche flat six engines, then, there are six coil packs. Over time, it’s inevitable that these will fail, leading to misfires, rough running and lack of power. All coil packs have a limited life, on whatever, car, but those in Porsche 996/997s and the like have a particularly tough life, as they are positioned very close to the hot exhaust system and also get splashed by water from the road. There are heatshields around the exhaust even these corrode away over time.


The heat causes the plastic casing to harden and eventually crack which leads to water ingress and, as we all know, water and electricity don’t mix well, and that’s when problems begin.


It’s easy enough to change Porsche 996/997 coil packs and during a service and, once done, this Porsche drove perfectly again.

Some people argue that failing coil packs are a Porsche design fault but, to be fair, we see the problem on all sorts of modern cars. It’s just one of those things that has a limited service life and when you think that the first Porsche 996s are some 15 years old, it’s not surprising that we are having to change coil packs.

IMG_4485 IMG_4486

Dropping a Porsche 911 engine

19 Jul 2013 by


Like the Beetle’s, a Porsche 911 engine is removed from below, and that stands true for all models, from 1963 to 2012, plus Boxsters and Caymans.


In many ways, it’s easier than hoisting an engine upwards through the bonnet, which is the case on most cars. You just need to have the car high enough off the ground and the engine drops right out. The exhaust system stays on the engine, too, which saves messing around disconnecting rusty and inaccessible fittings.


OK, it’s not quite that simple. On modern Porsches, such as this 997, there’s a fair bit of work involved in disconnecting the various pipes and cables from the engine (air-cooled cars had an advantage here as they had no water pipes!). We allow four hours to get an engine out, and about the same to put it back again.


It’s good that it’s straightforward to drop a Porsche 911 engine, as you need to do so for various jobs on the car. In this case, the engine had to come out simply to renew some air-conditioning pipes.

Look at how large a modern Porsche 911 engine is when it’s out of the car. Of course, much of that is the exhaust system but it’s still a chunky unit.